Aluminum Frames Vs PVC Or Wood - Are They Worth the Extra Cost?
Having lived with all three types of windows and patio doors in the past three years, I feel that I am an 'expert user' when it comes to opening and closing in each medium: wood, pvc and aluminium.
First, the novice's choice: wood. It looks great, feels warm, can be stained a medium or dark shade or painted any colour of the spectrum. It's an age-old medium so what can go wrong? The main problems are humidity and strong sunlight.
There are varying qualities of wood on offer, depending on your budget. A moderately-priced pair of French doors on a south-facing house wall suffered a degree of warping, creating gaps that had to be plugged each winter in an attempt to keep the cold draughts at bay whereas, in warmer damp circumstances, the door had to be forcibly pushed and pulled back into its aperture.
Two good summers and the four coats of varnish had virtually vapourised, revealing cracking wood that needed nourishing and protecting from the next couple of years' weather.
Second, the double-glazing salesman's special offer: PVC. Overpriced by a couple of well-known companies who then discount by 50% if you hesitate, PVC is also available in varying qualities. At the higher end of the market, the frames are often reinforced with metal.
Generally with more features than wooden doors and windows, PVC should not require much more than a quick wipe with a damp cloth for the first few years and its looks are therefore easier to maintain. We have some PVC French Doors from the lower price range. As value for money, they are quite good but an element of trust is lacking in terms of defence against determined intruders. They feel floppy and flimsy when opening and closing and there's a knack to locking and unlocking them successfully. We have older PVC doors from the higher price range and, whilst more sturdy (reinforced with metal) they are looking a tad ratty.
The PVC windows screeched with wind whistling through, like semi-detached tinnitus.
Thirdly and finally, the long term investment: powder-coated aluminium frames. If you are fed up with sanding down wooden frames and considering the easy option of PVC or coated aluminium, particularly for a wide opening with multi-folding doors. Consider whether PVC is up to the task of substituting for the wall of your house.
Stand back and look through closed doors at the difference between PVC and aluminium - it is very noticeable. With PVC, there are windows of scenery between wide areas of plastic (two frames together might measure between 8 and 10 inches, 20 to 25cms) so the doors block up to 20 per cent of the potential view and light-source.
Sunday, December 26, 2010
Friday, September 24, 2010
Horse Jumps From Rustic to High Technology PVC
Horse Jumps From Rustic to High Technology PVC
Even today some of the jumps used at shows look like no more than rough hewn branch off a tree. In fact that is just what they are. There was once a time when there were no specialist designers building jumps. The amazing jumps we take for granted at so many shows had not been created.
In those days the rails were cut down wherever the jump course builder found them. I remember many days, many years back, when we ever drove past a house that had some of the right shape of trees growing in the side yard. We would pulled over, knock on the door, and ask the house owner if he or she minded if he cut a few down branches. Of course we were helping them to tidy heir yards, so they usually said yes quite enthusiastically. Especially when he explained why he wanted them.
We use all wood horse jumps still, and we build our jump competition courses using an array of jumps as well as jump rails / poles and jump cups.
Using wood for our jumps allows us to customize our jumps to meet our show entrants needs. We can build almost anything these days to meet any course design needs. We have a wide variety of products available for our needs including: Schooling Standards, Sali Wing Standards, Straight Wing Standards, Walls, Coops, Pickets, Gates, Planks, Curved Planks, Wishing Wells, Cavaletti, Jump Rails, Composit Jump Cups, Jump Poles, Arched Walls, Brush Boxes, Flower Boxes, Turf Tops, and Roll Tops.
The jumps we use are a product can be left "raw" or painted to best suit the needs of your show entrants.
Increasingly popular though are PVC horse jumps. Believe it or not though, PVC jumps have been available since the !980s. We recommend JUMP PVC as the manufacturer to fit the bill for better jump equipment for the busy horseman or woman. They provide jumps that require no maintenance, are easy to handle and yet extremely sturdy and durable in can be used in all weather conditions. JUMP PVC does all this and more. They have designed their equipment to be both functional and beautiful, to fit the needs of both the pleasure rider as well as the Olympic competitor. So they should have jumps to please everyone.
Buying good quality horse jumps is an investment in your sport or business and in the end buying PVC can make very good sense, it often does save to buy the best the first time.
Do not forget that PVC jumps weigh half that of wood, and allow the most small framed riders to make adjustment to the course with vry little effort.
This can be very important when riders make up their own course keeping in mind the ability of their horse.
When designing a jumping course remember that at the start you must pass through the flags to start a round. A jump is positioned so that it can be scored twice only and any additional times it is jumped is a not counted. The fastest horse/rider combination knocking down the fewest jumps are declared the winner.
Time faults are assessed for exceeding the time allowance. Jumping faults are incurred for knock-downs and blatant disobedience, such as refusals (when the horse stops before a fence or "runs out").
Show jumps can be painted, unpainted or stained dark brown for a 'working hunter' look. Quality is everyone's primary concern. Make sure they are built to last. Show jumps are often lavishly striped and decorated to suit themes of the surrounding environment.
Even today some of the jumps used at shows look like no more than rough hewn branch off a tree. In fact that is just what they are. There was once a time when there were no specialist designers building jumps. The amazing jumps we take for granted at so many shows had not been created.
In those days the rails were cut down wherever the jump course builder found them. I remember many days, many years back, when we ever drove past a house that had some of the right shape of trees growing in the side yard. We would pulled over, knock on the door, and ask the house owner if he or she minded if he cut a few down branches. Of course we were helping them to tidy heir yards, so they usually said yes quite enthusiastically. Especially when he explained why he wanted them.
We use all wood horse jumps still, and we build our jump competition courses using an array of jumps as well as jump rails / poles and jump cups.
Using wood for our jumps allows us to customize our jumps to meet our show entrants needs. We can build almost anything these days to meet any course design needs. We have a wide variety of products available for our needs including: Schooling Standards, Sali Wing Standards, Straight Wing Standards, Walls, Coops, Pickets, Gates, Planks, Curved Planks, Wishing Wells, Cavaletti, Jump Rails, Composit Jump Cups, Jump Poles, Arched Walls, Brush Boxes, Flower Boxes, Turf Tops, and Roll Tops.
The jumps we use are a product can be left "raw" or painted to best suit the needs of your show entrants.
Increasingly popular though are PVC horse jumps. Believe it or not though, PVC jumps have been available since the !980s. We recommend JUMP PVC as the manufacturer to fit the bill for better jump equipment for the busy horseman or woman. They provide jumps that require no maintenance, are easy to handle and yet extremely sturdy and durable in can be used in all weather conditions. JUMP PVC does all this and more. They have designed their equipment to be both functional and beautiful, to fit the needs of both the pleasure rider as well as the Olympic competitor. So they should have jumps to please everyone.
Buying good quality horse jumps is an investment in your sport or business and in the end buying PVC can make very good sense, it often does save to buy the best the first time.
Do not forget that PVC jumps weigh half that of wood, and allow the most small framed riders to make adjustment to the course with vry little effort.
This can be very important when riders make up their own course keeping in mind the ability of their horse.
When designing a jumping course remember that at the start you must pass through the flags to start a round. A jump is positioned so that it can be scored twice only and any additional times it is jumped is a not counted. The fastest horse/rider combination knocking down the fewest jumps are declared the winner.
Time faults are assessed for exceeding the time allowance. Jumping faults are incurred for knock-downs and blatant disobedience, such as refusals (when the horse stops before a fence or "runs out").
Show jumps can be painted, unpainted or stained dark brown for a 'working hunter' look. Quality is everyone's primary concern. Make sure they are built to last. Show jumps are often lavishly striped and decorated to suit themes of the surrounding environment.
Sunday, September 5, 2010
Copper plumbing fittings keywords
Copper plumbing fittings keywords
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irrigation pipes and fittings
abs pipes and fittings
copper pipes and fittings
plumbing pipes and fittings
gas pipes and fittings
water pipes
ppr pipes
ductile pipes
upvc pipe manufacturers
drain pipes and fittings
pvc supply
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multilayer pipes
pvc cast iron
pvc pipe machines
plastic pvc pipe
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piping fittings
abs fittings
pvc drain
flexible pvc
pp r pipes
di pipes
compression fittings
pvc conduits
hdpe pipe
ductile iron pipe fittings
grp pipes
hose pipe
pvc applications
tube pvc
gas fittings
plumbing
pipe manufacturers
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sewer pipe repair
aluminum plastic pipe
polybutylene water pipe
plastic pipe tube
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Friday, September 3, 2010
Evaluating A Home - Water Pipes
Evaluating A Home - Water Pipes
When evaluating a home you are considering buying, it is easy to get caught up in the visual aspects of the home. Water pipes are just one unseen area you remember to inspect.
Water Pipes – Drip, Drip, Drip
Alright, I’ll admit right away water pipes are not exactly the most glamorous aspect of a home. In fact, water piping in most homes is more than adequate to keep you in hot showers while you live there and take care of all your water needs. If there is a problem with the interior water pipes, however, you are in for a very costly and disruptive experience.
The main issue with water pipes on the interior of a home is their location. It is easy to forget about them because they are primarily hidden behind the walls of the house. While this is good from a visual perspective, it quickly becomes a negative if a pipe starts leaking or, god forbid, actually bursts inside a wall. Leaks lead to rot and mold problems that can effect the health of you family. A burst pipe leads to flooding, new carpets, rebuilt walls and large bills.
When evaluating the water pipes in a home, keep in mind the following issues.
1. Copper – The best piping material for water pipes is copper. It will last forever and is resistant to hard deposit build ups which can impact the amount of water flowing through the pipes. Copper pipes are also the sign of a quality construction effort as they tend to be more expensive than alternatives.
2. PVC – If you see PVC water pipes anywhere other than on the sprinkler system or from the main street line to the house, red flags should wave before your eyes. The presence of PVC piping is an indication of an owner doing the piping themselves, as most construction companies will not use PVC. In a majority of locations, such use of PVC is outright illegal. Do not buy a home with PVC piping in the walls! Ever!
3. Iron Piping – For a long time, iron piping was pretty much the standard in home construction. There is nothing particularly wrong with using such piping with one exception. Iron piping is susceptible to water and will rust over time. If you find this grey, metal piping in the home, find out when it was put in and check for rust. Iron piping should last roughly 30 years without any major problems. If replacements must be made, go with copper.
The pipes moving water around the interior of a home may seem uninteresting. Your attitude, however, will change if one of them bursts in the middle of the night.
When evaluating a home you are considering buying, it is easy to get caught up in the visual aspects of the home. Water pipes are just one unseen area you remember to inspect.
Water Pipes – Drip, Drip, Drip
Alright, I’ll admit right away water pipes are not exactly the most glamorous aspect of a home. In fact, water piping in most homes is more than adequate to keep you in hot showers while you live there and take care of all your water needs. If there is a problem with the interior water pipes, however, you are in for a very costly and disruptive experience.
The main issue with water pipes on the interior of a home is their location. It is easy to forget about them because they are primarily hidden behind the walls of the house. While this is good from a visual perspective, it quickly becomes a negative if a pipe starts leaking or, god forbid, actually bursts inside a wall. Leaks lead to rot and mold problems that can effect the health of you family. A burst pipe leads to flooding, new carpets, rebuilt walls and large bills.
When evaluating the water pipes in a home, keep in mind the following issues.
1. Copper – The best piping material for water pipes is copper. It will last forever and is resistant to hard deposit build ups which can impact the amount of water flowing through the pipes. Copper pipes are also the sign of a quality construction effort as they tend to be more expensive than alternatives.
2. PVC – If you see PVC water pipes anywhere other than on the sprinkler system or from the main street line to the house, red flags should wave before your eyes. The presence of PVC piping is an indication of an owner doing the piping themselves, as most construction companies will not use PVC. In a majority of locations, such use of PVC is outright illegal. Do not buy a home with PVC piping in the walls! Ever!
3. Iron Piping – For a long time, iron piping was pretty much the standard in home construction. There is nothing particularly wrong with using such piping with one exception. Iron piping is susceptible to water and will rust over time. If you find this grey, metal piping in the home, find out when it was put in and check for rust. Iron piping should last roughly 30 years without any major problems. If replacements must be made, go with copper.
The pipes moving water around the interior of a home may seem uninteresting. Your attitude, however, will change if one of them bursts in the middle of the night.
Sunday, August 22, 2010
Fitting Pipe Tips and Guide - Pvc Pipes and Fittings - Plumber
Fitting Pipe Tips and Guide - Pvc Pipes and Fittings - Plumber
PVC Pipe is a versatile form of pipe which has revolutionized modern plumbing. PVC can be used for drainage, waste water or vent piping but is not suitable for water supply, in which case, copper pipe is most commonly used.
PVC stands for Polyvinyl Chloride which is a compound designed for strength and durability. It is resistant to corrosive materials found in cleaners and other household chemicals and also to the extremes of hard and soft water. It resists leakage and does not conduct electricity. For these reasons it is the common choice for modern plumbing and for replacing old plumbing.
There are many different sizes, lengths and diameters of PVC pope available. Pipes are designed to fit within each other and fixed with solvent cement.
A coupling is the term used to describe a join between two pieces of PVC pipe, in particular when they are joined with no angle. Joins can be of varying degrees however, typically they are 22, 45, 60 and 90 degrees. An angled join is generally called an elbow.
Transition pieces are available to allow connection with other types of piping. A threaded adapter is available which will allow joining between threaded galvanized pipe. For connecting to non threaded metal pipe a gasket can be used which threads over both ends of pipe and is then secured in place using stainless steel clamps.
When fitting PVC pipes be sure to wear protective eye wear and a mask. Cut using a PVC hand saw and then use a deburring tool or the tip of the saw to remove any rough edges, especially from the inside of the pipe. Dry fit the pipes together to ensure that they are a good fit before applying solvent cement. Mark out exactly where the pipes will be joined together as once you apply the cement you will need to act quickly.
Joining PVC pipes is a two step process. Firstly a primer is applied, which cleans the area and begins a chemical reaction with the pipe. Spread primer on the outside of the pipe and on the inside of the fitting. Next spread cement over the same areas of the piping. Once the cement has been applied insert the pipe and hold for a few seconds for the cement to set. Always work in a well ventilated area and wear a face mask, as these chemicals can have quite a powerful odor. Run some water through the join to ensure that a good seal has been made.
PVC pipe is extremely versatile and hardy and the creative home improver can find many projects involving its use, including bird feeders, storage, hanging planters and more.
PVC Pipe is a versatile form of pipe which has revolutionized modern plumbing. PVC can be used for drainage, waste water or vent piping but is not suitable for water supply, in which case, copper pipe is most commonly used.
PVC stands for Polyvinyl Chloride which is a compound designed for strength and durability. It is resistant to corrosive materials found in cleaners and other household chemicals and also to the extremes of hard and soft water. It resists leakage and does not conduct electricity. For these reasons it is the common choice for modern plumbing and for replacing old plumbing.
There are many different sizes, lengths and diameters of PVC pope available. Pipes are designed to fit within each other and fixed with solvent cement.
A coupling is the term used to describe a join between two pieces of PVC pipe, in particular when they are joined with no angle. Joins can be of varying degrees however, typically they are 22, 45, 60 and 90 degrees. An angled join is generally called an elbow.
Transition pieces are available to allow connection with other types of piping. A threaded adapter is available which will allow joining between threaded galvanized pipe. For connecting to non threaded metal pipe a gasket can be used which threads over both ends of pipe and is then secured in place using stainless steel clamps.
When fitting PVC pipes be sure to wear protective eye wear and a mask. Cut using a PVC hand saw and then use a deburring tool or the tip of the saw to remove any rough edges, especially from the inside of the pipe. Dry fit the pipes together to ensure that they are a good fit before applying solvent cement. Mark out exactly where the pipes will be joined together as once you apply the cement you will need to act quickly.
Joining PVC pipes is a two step process. Firstly a primer is applied, which cleans the area and begins a chemical reaction with the pipe. Spread primer on the outside of the pipe and on the inside of the fitting. Next spread cement over the same areas of the piping. Once the cement has been applied insert the pipe and hold for a few seconds for the cement to set. Always work in a well ventilated area and wear a face mask, as these chemicals can have quite a powerful odor. Run some water through the join to ensure that a good seal has been made.
PVC pipe is extremely versatile and hardy and the creative home improver can find many projects involving its use, including bird feeders, storage, hanging planters and more.
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